Destination guide · East Bali

Candidasa Area Guide

A low-key seaside town at the centre of East Bali's villages, palaces and dive sites.

By the Baligasm editors · Updated 29 October 2026

Area brief

What Candidasa is really like

On Bali's east coast in Karangasem regency, Candidasa is a quiet seaside town roughly 65 km from the airport, a drive of 1.5 to 2.5 hours. No base is more central for the east: Tenganan village is 4 km uphill, Padang Bai's boats 13 km west, and Tirta Gangga, Taman Ujung and Lempuyang all within an hour. It suits culture lovers, divers and couples; the town beach is thin, so plan on three nights and day trips to swim.

Candidasa grew up along the main coast road of Karangasem regency, around a freshwater lagoon full of lotus. Padang Bai's ferry port is 13 km to the west and the airport roughly 65 km away. What sets it apart is reach: the Bali Aga village of Tenganan sits 4 km up the hill, the white sand of Virgin Beach is 8 km east, and the water palaces and Lempuyang are each under an hour's drive. Few towns on the island let you see so much of the east from a single bed.

The weakness is the beach. During the 1970s and 1980s the reef offshore was dug up and burned for lime to build hotels, houses and restaurants, and without its protection the sand drifted away. Groynes were added in the 1990s and seawalls now run along much of the front, leaving small coves that disappear at high tide. So most people do their swimming in the hotel pool and take a car to the proper beaches nearby. The waters off town, with the offshore rocks of Tepekong and Mimpang, became a marine protected area in 2017.

The pace is gentle and slightly old-fashioned, which is much of the appeal: low-rise hotels on the sea side of Candidasa Main Road, warungs and dive shops opposite, and a quiet dinner instead of nightlife. The same road is also the east-coast highway, though, so trucks and coaches rumble through day and night; rooms on the sea side, or in Mendira to the west, are quieter. To the east, Bugbug faces real development pressure: in August 2023 villagers torched a half-built resort close to Pura Gumang, and two years later plans surfaced for a 400-room hotel on the Bukit Asah cliffs.

Choosing between the neighbours comes down to priorities. Amed, 35 km north-east, has far better snorkelling straight off the beach but is further from the airport. Padang Bai, the ferry town, is rougher round the edges and aimed at backpackers, but its coves beat anything in Candidasa. Sidemen is inland, green and agricultural. Candidasa is the one to pick when the goal is East Bali's villages, palaces and temples, seen comfortably from one base.

Best for: Tenganan, the water palaces, diving and day trips around the east
Vibe: Quiet, low-rise and a little old-fashioned; early nights
From the airport: About 65 km, 1.5 to 2.5 hours by car
Days needed: Three nights; four with a dive day or the Kastala walk
Best time: April to October; September is the driest month
Getting around: Walk in town; scooter or car with driver for everything else

Candidasa suits you if…

✓Culture: the walled Bali Aga village of Tenganan is 4 km away
✓Easy drives to the water palaces and the Gates of Heaven
✓Experienced divers, with Gili Tepekong and Gili Mimpang just offshore
✓Couples and older travellers who want calm evenings by the sea
✓Breaking the journey before or after a boat to the Gilis or Lombok

Skip it if…

✕You want a sandy swimming beach in town: seawalls have replaced it
✕Nightlife, beach clubs or shopping are part of the plan
✕Road noise bothers you: the coast highway runs right through town
✕You will not use a scooter or a driver: the best sights are 4 to 45 km away

Neighbourhoods

Which part of Candidasa to stay in

Candidasa town, the lagoon and Mendira

Hotels occupy the sea side of Candidasa Main Road, with warungs, dive centres, minimarts and cash machines facing them across the traffic. The lotus lagoon sits in the middle of town, Pura Candidasa on the slope opposite and the Gedong Gandhi Ashram, founded in 1976, next door. Roughly 2.5 km west, side lanes run down to Mendira, a banjar of Sengkidu, where small hotels stand right on the water. It is quieter there, but with few places to eat.

Best for: First-time visitors in town; couples and long stays in Mendira

Bugbug, Bukit Asah and Virgin Beach

East of the lagoon the road rises to Bugbug, one of Karangasem's biggest traditional villages. Its tourism board manages Bukit Asah, a clifftop with camping, and Virgin Beach, around 8 km from town. A handful of villas sit in the hills, and resort proposals keep returning; one ended in a riot in 2023. You need a scooter or driver to get anywhere from here.

Best for: Beach days and clifftop views for anyone with a scooter

Padang Bai

Thirteen kilometres west, Padang Bai is a small harbour town on a curving bay, where car ferries sail for Lombok and Nusa Penida and speedboats for the Gilis and Lembongan. Silayukti Road, behind the beach, is lined with dive centres, cafés and basic rooms; both of the swimming coves are a short walk over the headlands. The port area itself is a crush of porters and touts.

Best for: Divers, snorkellers and anyone with an early boat to catch

Tenganan and the hills

Inland, a lane climbs some 4 km to the walls of Tenganan Pegringsingan, with its sister village of Tenganan Dauh Tukad nearby and the Kastala valley further up. Terraced paddies and forest cover the slopes, threaded with old footpaths. Places to stay are few, restaurants close to non-existent, and Tenganan shuts to visitors at nightfall.

Best for: Walkers who would rather wake to rice fields than the sea

Amlapura and Tirta Gangga

The regency capital, Amlapura, lies 14 km to the north-east; it has the old palace, the main market, banks and Karangasem's hospital. Taman Ujung lies about 5 km south-east on the coast, while Tirta Gangga is 7 km to the north, where budget guesthouses line the road among rice terraces. Lempuyang and Amed are closer from here, and evenings are very quiet.

Best for: Early Lempuyang starts and slow days at the water palaces

Top sights · 15 picks

Things to do in Candidasa

01 · Culture

Tenganan Pegringsingan

📍 About 4 km north of Candidasa (10 minutes by car)

The best known of Bali's Bali Aga villages follows customs older than the Majapahit-era Hinduism practised across the rest of the island. Inside its wall, rows of almost identical family compounds flank stone terraces that rise to Pura Puseh, and a kul-kul drum is beaten 21 times every morning. Women weave geringsing, a double ikat produced in only three places on earth, and men etch fine drawings onto lontar palm leaves.

Tip: Entry is by donation past the car park, typically about IDR 50,000; open roughly 7 am–6 pm.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

02 · Culture

Tirta Gangga water palace

📍 Ababi, about 18 km north-east (30–40 minutes by car)

Karangasem's last raja started this water garden in 1946. Earthquakes during Mount Agung's 1963 eruptions destroyed much of it, so a good deal of what you see is rebuilt. Octagonal stepping stones lead across ponds of koi past carved figures, and the springs provide holy water for ceremonies. Since 2025 the ticket also covers the spring-fed swimming pool and, according to the manager, a small museum, so pack swimwear.

Tip: Foreign adults have paid IDR 90,000 since March 2025. Arrive early, ahead of the coaches.

Visitor guide →On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

03 · Beach

Virgin Beach (Pantai Pasir Putih)

📍 Perasi, east of Bugbug, 15–20 minutes by road

Beyond Bugbug, a lane drops to Pantai Pasir Putih, also called Perasi Beach: around half a kilometre of white sand framed by wooded headlands. It is far from empty now, with sunbeds, warungs grilling fish, massage sellers and day-trippers arriving by midday. On most days the water is calm enough for swimming, and there is reef to snorkel when the sea is flat.

Tip: Villagers collect a small fee on the access road. A weekday morning is quietest.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

04 · Culture

Taman Ujung water palace

📍 Tumbu, near Amlapura, about 12 km away (25–30 minutes)

The same raja who later created Tirta Gangga began this seaside palace in 1909 and completed it in the early 1920s; Balinese builders worked with architects from the Netherlands and China. Its 10 hectares contain three large ponds crossed by bridges, a pavilion on an island and the Bale Kapal on the slope above. Left in ruins by the eruption of 1963 and an earthquake that followed, it was rebuilt from 1998 to 2001, and it sees far fewer visitors than Tirta Gangga.

Tip: Foreign adults pay IDR 100,000, a rate in place since January 2024. Late-afternoon light suits it best.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

05 · Beach

Snorkelling at Blue Lagoon, Padang Bai

📍 East end of Padang Bai, about 15 minutes on foot from the harbour

A path over the headland east of Padang Bai passes Pura Silayukti, associated with the 11th-century sage Mpu Kuturan, before dropping to Blue Lagoon, a small cove where the reef begins a few metres from the sand. On calm mornings you drift over coral among clownfish, parrotfish and angelfish, with the odd turtle. Warungs hire out masks and fins. By midday, snorkel boats from the south crowd the bay.

Tip: No entry fee, only IDR 2,000–5,000 for parking. Stay inside the bay, as currents build when the tide turns.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

06 · Temple

Lempuyang: the Gates of Heaven and the 1,700 steps

📍 Mount Lempuyang, about 28 km north-east (45–60 minutes)

The split gate of Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang, with Mount Agung framed between its towers, draws Bali's longest photo queue: a numbered ticket, a wait that is often two to four hours, 30 to 60 seconds in position and a mirror under the phone to fake a reflection. Beyond it, a forest stairway of around 1,700 steps leads to Pura Lempuyang Luhur, among the nine temples guarding Bali's compass points, at about 1,060 m. The round trip takes three to four hours.

Tip: About IDR 100,000 for foreigners with sarong, plus IDR 50,000 for the shuttle; cash only; the first shuttle runs at about 5:30 am, and the temple shuts to tourists for roughly five days at Galungan.

Visitor guide →On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

07 · Adventure

Diving Gili Tepekong and Gili Mimpang

📍 Offshore; dive boats usually depart from Padang Bai

The rocky islets off Candidasa offer some of Bali's most demanding diving. Gili Mimpang, about ten minutes out by boat, has whitetip reef sharks, wobbegongs and visibility of around 30 m. Gili Tepekong has pinnacles, walls and a canyon nicknamed the Toilet for its churning currents. Between August and October, mola mola sometimes appear. Candidasa has no pier, so most trips launch from Padang Bai.

Tip: Tepekong needs at least Open Water and about ten logged dives. Currents are strongest at tide changes and new moon.

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08 · Beach

Bias Tugel beach

📍 A 15-minute walk west of Padang Bai harbour

On the far side of Padang Bai's harbour, a short, steep forest trail leads down to Bias Tugel, some 130 m of pale sand where the black volcanic coast gives way. Family-run warungs grill fish and rent sunbeds and snorkel sets. The setting beats Blue Lagoon, but it faces the open sea, with a heavy shorebreak at high tide and powerful currents on some days.

Tip: IDR 10,000 per person including parking. Swim at low or mid tide, and never in a big swell.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

Show all 15 things to do ↓

09 · Nature

Kastala to Tenganan rice-terrace walk

📍 Kastala (Bebandem) to Tenganan Pegringsingan

The area's best walk starts in Kastala, an old farming village on the opposite side of the valley from Tenganan, where you cross a bamboo bridge. It climbs to the ridge, follows the rim and then descends through forest and dry riverbeds to come out behind Tenganan's northern temple. Allow about two hours, passing rice terraces, subak channels and basket weavers, with Agung and Lempuyang visible on clear mornings.

Tip: Book a local guide through your hotel, as the paths are easy to lose. Start early.

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10 · Culture

Perang Pandan at Tenganan

📍 Central pavilions, Tenganan Pegringsingan

During Usaba Sambah, Tenganan's month-long festival, pairs of young men duel with bundles of thorny pandan leaves and rattan shields, scraping blood from each other's backs in honour of Indra, god of war. The fights take place over two days from about midday, while young women ride wooden ritual swings. Wounds are dressed with a herbal paste, and nobody holds a grudge afterwards.

Tip: It falls in June or July (9–11 June in 2026). There is no charge; come early for a spot and wear modest clothes.

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11 · Temple

The lotus lagoon and Pura Candidasa

📍 Candidasa Main Road, centre of town

Across the road from the lotus lagoon, steps lead up to Pura Candidasa, a pair of temples to Shiva and to Hariti, whom the Balinese call Men Brayut and depict surrounded by children. Couples who hope to conceive come here to pray, and the town's former name, Cilidasa, meaning ten children, is said to derive from her. The lagoon looks its best at sunset.

Tip: Wear a sarong and sash, and keep out of the inner courtyard when a ceremony is on.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

12 · Temple

Goa Lawah bat cave temple

📍 Pesinggahan, Klungkung, about 16 km west (25–35 minutes)

Sometimes listed among Bali's directional temples, Goa Lawah is believed to protect the island from evil arriving by sea. The shrines are built across the entrance to a cave packed with thousands of bats, which pour out around dusk. Along the dark sand at nearby Kusamba, traditional salt-making in hollowed palm trunks hangs on: around 14 farmers still worked in 2026, down from about 180 half a century earlier.

Tip: Small entry fee plus sarong hire; prices vary, so carry small notes. Open about 8 am–6 pm.

On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

13 · Viewpoint

Bukit Asah clifftop

📍 Bugbug, about 7 km east (15 minutes by car)

Beyond Bugbug, the grass of Bukit Asah runs out to a sheer drop. Offshore lies Pulau Kuan, a rock shaped like a whale, and Virgin Beach curves away to the east. Bugbug's tourism board rents out tents for overnight camping and sells jukung boat trips. Come early or late in the day for the best light. Plans for a large resort on the headland were announced in 2025, which could affect access.

Tip: Small entry fee; arrange camping through the village tourism board.

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14 · Culture

Puri Agung Karangasem

📍 Sultan Agung Road, Amlapura, about 14 km north-east (25 minutes)

In the centre of Amlapura stands the late-19th-century palace of the rajas who went on to build Tirta Gangga and Taman Ujung. Balinese shrines and courtyards sit beside European-style columns and Chinese decoration, and the Bale Kambang pavilion floats in a pond. Few tour groups stop here, so you can explore in peace for 30 to 45 minutes, ideally on the way to Taman Ujung.

Tip: About IDR 30,000 per adult, cash. The ticket booth is sometimes empty around midday.

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15 · Temple

Besakih Mother Temple

📍 Slopes of Mount Agung, 1–1.5 hours' drive

Bali's holiest temple is a complex of 23 temples terraced around 1,000 m up the slopes of Mount Agung; lava from the 1963 eruption passed within metres of it. Since 2023 visitors leave their cars at the Manik Mas terminal and take a shuttle up. From Candidasa it is a long half-day and frequently wrapped in cloud, so pick a clear morning.

Tip: Foreign adults pay IDR 150,000 including guide, sarong and shuttle. Pay only at the official office.

Visitor guide →On the Blog →Open in Maps ↗

Itinerary

How to spend your days in Candidasa

Candidasa in a day

About 8 km on foot if you walk up to Tenganan and back; the afternoon loop east to Bukit Asah and Virgin Beach, about 18 km in all, needs a scooter or driver.

7:00
Stroll to the lotus lagoon and up the steps to Pura Candidasa before it gets hot, then have breakfast on the main road.
8:30
Walk 3.5 km uphill to Tenganan, 45 to 60 minutes, or ride in ten, and spend an hour with the weavers and lontar artists.
11:00
Return downhill to eat and spend the hottest hours in the pool.
14:30
Take the scooter east past Bugbug, about 7 km, to the cliffs at Bukit Asah.
15:30
Carry on 2 km to the beach for a swim and a plate of grilled fish as the sun drops.
18:30
Return the 9 km to town for dinner beside the lagoon.

Candidasa in three days

Walk the town, Tenganan and Padang Bai sections; book a driver or ride a scooter for the rest.

Day 1
Use the day plan above, from the lagoon temple and Tenganan in the morning to the clifftop and the beach after lunch.
Day 2, 7:30
Head to the harbour at Padang Bai, under half an hour away, for a two-tank boat trip to the islets.
Day 2, 12:30
Snorkel the reef at Blue Lagoon, a short walk over the hill, then finish the afternoon on the sand at Bias Tugel.
Day 2, 17:30
Drive west to Goa Lawah to watch the bats leave at dusk, then return to Candidasa.
Day 3, 5:00
Leave for the Lempuyang terminal, 45 to 60 minutes away, to catch the first shuttle.
Day 3, 10:30
Descend to Tirta Gangga for the ponds, a swim in the spring pool and lunch.
Day 3, 13:30
Visit Puri Agung Karangasem in Amlapura, then Taman Ujung for the late light before heading back.

Candidasa on a rainy day

From November to March storms usually break in the afternoon, so do the outdoor sights early and keep covered ones for later.

8:00
Visit Tenganan while it is dry and watch the weavers at work under cover.
10:30
Drive to Amlapura to explore the courtyards and pavilions of Puri Agung Karangasem.
12:30
Lunch in Amlapura or back in town.
14:00
Shelter at Goa Lawah, where the shrines sit under the cave mouth, or book a massage at your hotel.
Evening
Skip the beaches, where run-off clouds the water after heavy rain, and dine by the lagoon.

Longer trip? Plan up to seven days from Candidasa or browse our Bali itineraries.

Where to stay

Hotels and villas in Candidasa

8.8

4-star resort

Candi Beach Resort & Spa

Resort on its own stretch of Mendira Bay, a couple of kilometres west of town, with three pools, a spa and several restaurants; built for families and couples.

8.9

4-star hotel

Alila Manggis

Contemporary sea-view resort in a coconut grove at Manggis, between Padang Bai and town, with cooking classes, yoga and a shuttle to Candidasa; suits couples after calm.

8.8

4-star hotel

Sea Breeze Candidasa

Stone-walled bungalows at Mendira with two infinity pools facing the Lombok Strait, plus meditation, cooking and painting classes; a quiet choice for couples.

8.9

4-star hotel

Hotel Genggong

Beachside hotel in the middle of Candidasa's dive strip, with a pool, garden and snorkelling off the shore; handy for divers who want to walk to dinner.

8.8

3-star hotel

Ganesh Lodge

Garden guesthouse on Puri Bagus Road, a two-minute walk from the sea at the east end of town, with a free-form pool and bikes for hire.

9.5

4-star hotel

Jepun Didulu Cottages

Self-catering bungalows with kitchens on the Perasi road, ten minutes from Virgin Beach and Tenganan, set around a pool; good for families and longer stays.

All stays in Candidasa →

Seasons

Best time to visit Candidasa

Candidasa shares its weather with Amlapura, 14 km away: around 1,540 mm of rain a year, from roughly 270 mm in January, the wettest month, down to about 35 mm in September, the driest, and daytime highs between 29 and 31°C. Divers get calmer, clearer water from April to October, which is also when Lempuyang's mornings are most often clear. From November to March, afternoon storms are common and run-off clouds the sea after heavy rain.

Ceremonies set much of the calendar. The pandan battles at Tenganan come round each June or July, and Bugbug stages its great Usaba at Pura Gumang every other year, around October. Around Galungan (next on 13 January 2027) Lempuyang turns tourists away for roughly five days. On Nyepi, 8 March 2027, nothing moves for 24 hours, not even the ferries and fast boats out of Padang Bai. July, August and Christmas are the busiest periods at the major sights.

Getting there

How to get to Candidasa

Ngurah Rai airport (DPS)1.5 to 2.5 hours
Roughly 65 km, mostly on the coastal highway past Padang Bai; a pre-booked driver is the usual choice.
Ubud1.5 to 2 hours
Roughly 46 km by car through Klungkung, or Perama's shared shuttle, which stops opposite Ashyana Hotel.
Sanur1.25 to 1.75 hours
About 47 km up the east-coast road; Perama also runs shuttles from Sanur and Kuta.
Padang Bai20 to 30 minutes
Around 13 km by car. Ride-hailing drivers can drop off at the port but are not allowed to pick up there.
Gili Islands or Lombok2 to 2.5 hours from the Gilis
Speedboat to Padang Bai (1.5 to 2 hours), or the slow ferry from Lembar (4 to 5 hours or more), then 20 to 30 minutes by road.
Amed45 to 60 minutes
About 35 km by car through Culik, Tirta Gangga and Amlapura.
Nusa Penida1 to 1.5 hours
Take a boat from Sampalan to Kusamba and drive the last 20 km, or ride the 90-minute car ferry to Padang Bai.

Travel times to Candidasa
From	Time	How
Ngurah Rai airport (DPS)	1.5 to 2.5 hours	Roughly 65 km, mostly on the coastal highway past Padang Bai; a pre-booked driver is the usual choice.
Ubud	1.5 to 2 hours	Roughly 46 km by car through Klungkung, or Perama's shared shuttle, which stops opposite Ashyana Hotel.
Sanur	1.25 to 1.75 hours	About 47 km up the east-coast road; Perama also runs shuttles from Sanur and Kuta.
Padang Bai	20 to 30 minutes	Around 13 km by car. Ride-hailing drivers can drop off at the port but are not allowed to pick up there.
Gili Islands or Lombok	2 to 2.5 hours from the Gilis	Speedboat to Padang Bai (1.5 to 2 hours), or the slow ferry from Lembar (4 to 5 hours or more), then 20 to 30 minutes by road.
Amed	45 to 60 minutes	About 35 km by car through Culik, Tirta Gangga and Amlapura.
Nusa Penida	1 to 1.5 hours	Take a boat from Sampalan to Kusamba and drive the last 20 km, or ride the 90-minute car ferry to Padang Bai.

Getting around Candidasa

The centre is easy to walk along Candidasa Main Road, and Mendira is about 2.5 km west, but trucks and buses travel fast here, so walk facing the traffic and take a torch after dark. Tenganan is 45 to 60 minutes uphill on foot, or ten minutes on a scooter.

Beyond town you need transport: most hotels rent scooters, and a driver hired for the day is the simplest way to combine Lempuyang, Tirta Gangga, Amlapura and Taman Ujung. Ride-hailing is unreliable this far east, bemos have almost disappeared, and the steep, narrow roads up to Lempuyang and Besakih are best avoided at night.

Know before you go

Candidasa tips that save time

01Bring your own sarong and sash for the smaller temples and Tenganan; at Lempuyang one is provided with the ticket.
02Carry cash: Lempuyang, Bias Tugel, Tenganan's donation booth and most warungs accept nothing else.
03At Padang Bai, carry your luggage yourself and get tickets from the boat company, not at the harbour entrance, where porters and touts are persistent.
04Swim at Virgin Beach, Blue Lagoon or Bias Tugel instead of in town, and watch the tide, as currents strengthen when it turns.
05Set off for Lempuyang by 5 am; by midday the queue for the gate photo can run to three or four hours.
06In Tenganan, ask before photographing people or stepping into a compound, and compare lontar prices at several houses.
07Pay Bali's IDR 150,000 tourist levy online through the official Love Bali portal before you travel.
08Choose a sea-side room or Mendira if traffic noise on the main road would keep you awake.

FAQ

Candidasa questions, answered

Is Candidasa a good place to stay?

Yes, as a calm, central base for exploring the east. Tenganan is a short ride uphill, and both water palaces, Lempuyang and the Padang Bai coves can each be reached in under an hour. It is a poor choice for a beach holiday in town, since seawalls have replaced the sand, and for anyone who wants nightlife.

Can you swim at the beach in Candidasa?

Not really in town. Coral mining in the 1970s and 1980s stripped away the reef that sheltered the shore, the sand washed out, and seawalls now leave only small pockets that vanish at high tide. For a proper swim, drive east to the white sand at Perasi or west to the two coves either side of the Padang Bai harbour.

How long is the drive from the airport?

About 65 km, which takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on traffic, mostly along the coast road past Padang Bai. Most visitors book a driver in advance. A cheaper option is Perama's shared shuttle from Kuta, Sanur and Ubud, which stops opposite Ashyana Hotel in the middle of town.

Should I base myself in Candidasa or Amed?

Candidasa if culture and day trips come first, as the airport, Tenganan, the harbour, Goa Lawah and Taman Ujung are all closer. Amed if you want to snorkel straight from the beach and dive the Liberty wreck at Tulamben. An hour or less separates them by road, so many travellers divide a week between both.

Which is better, Candidasa or Padang Bai?

Padang Bai suits travellers catching an early boat or snorkelling every day, as Blue Lagoon and Bias Tugel are 15 minutes away on foot, though most rooms are basic. Candidasa is calmer, with more comfortable hotels, and sits closer to Tenganan, Virgin Beach and the two water palaces.

How many nights do I need?

Three is right for most people: one day for the town, Tenganan and Virgin Beach, one in Padang Bai for diving or snorkelling, and one inland for Lempuyang, Tirta Gangga, Amlapura and Taman Ujung. A fourth night allows the Kastala walk or a second day underwater.

Are visitors welcome in Tenganan?

Yes, during daylight, roughly 7 am to 6 pm. You pay a donation at a booth past the car park, typically around IDR 50,000. Dress modestly, ask before photographing anyone, and expect to be invited into homes that sell geringsing cloth and lontar drawings; there is no obligation to buy.

Is Virgin Beach worth the detour?

Yes, if you want a swim. Some 15 to 20 minutes east of town, it is the nearest stretch of white sand, usually calm, with warungs and loungers. It is no longer untouched, with rows of loungers and day-trippers arriving by midday, so a weekday morning is the best time to go.

How do I get from Candidasa to the Gili Islands?

Fast boats leave from Padang Bai, a short drive west, and reach the islands in 1.5 to 2 hours. Over a dozen companies run crossings from about 8 am until early afternoon, charging around IDR 200,000 to 685,000 one way. The slower car ferry to Lembar on Lombok takes four to five hours or longer.

Nearby

Where to go after Candidasa

45 to 60 minutes' drive

Amed

Snorkelling off the beach at Jemeluk and the Liberty wreck at Tulamben, below Mount Agung.

40 to 60 minutes' drive

Sidemen

A green rice valley beneath Mount Agung, with songket weaving and river walks.

20 to 30 minutes to Padang Bai, then 1.5 to 2 hours by fast boat

Gili Trawangan

A car-free island with turtles on the reef, reached from East Bali's busiest port.

1 to 1.5 hours via Kusamba by car and boat

Nusa Penida

Kelingking, Crystal Bay and manta rays across the strait.

1.5 to 2 hours' drive

Ubud

Head inland for paddies, temples and a dance performance every evening.

More Candidasa guides on the Blog

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